[solved]Speed restrictions for NEW CAR?

I purchased a new Tavera. Owner's manual suggests speeds up to 100 Km per hour for the firsgt 1000 Kms. But I was advised by the dealer to keep it to 70 Km or below for the first 5000 kms. Can some one talk about as how to handle a new car as far as speeds go.

Thanks
TSR

When it comes to a new car, It has nothing to do with Speed.. What matters is RPM.. I advise, u must not exceed 2500rpm till 1st oil change..

Yup, thats called the Run-in period. One should not Rev his car beyond 3000 RPM till the first service. In the Civic automatic the car does not Down-shift using the Paddle shift till the first service, After that this feature is unlocked and the fun begins :drive:

Yup for Logan, we should not cross 2500RPM for the first 6000kms. As abhi_qpotsiavs said, it is nothing to do with speed. It is the engine speed that matters(RPM). Maintain under 2500 RPM.

Mr.Reddy, thats run-in period where new engine takes to settle down with rev up through first 1000 kms, so do not exceed beyond 2500-3000 rpm within that period.CHEERS!!!

Thanks Guys for your help
TSR

Well, it's a little more than just keeping the revs low, because what also matters is the rate of change of revs. considering the car engine is running in, the load also has to be increased gradually. Therefore, don't accelerate too fast either,especially when the engine is cold.
this is for ALL engines no matter how old - rapid changes in rpm on a cold engine also increases wear - simply put - the oil is too thick (read viscous) to flow to all parts evenly and therefore smaller areas needing the lubrication require warm oil (with reduced viscosity) to flow to them for efficient lubrication.
Oil does more than just lubrication, it also cools, and also washes away particles therefore it's important to maintain the quality of oil.
For engines fitted with turbochargers - never EVER EVER race your engine before stopping and just after starting. This is so that you maintain lubrication to the sleeve bearings. Racing the engine raises the speed of the turbo and if you shut down the engine the turbine is still spinning but there's no oil - this is the main cause of turbo failures especially in the Skoda Laura.
lot's more to write if people are interested...

@ Hades: Ohh, Come on, Go on. I am interested. :)

Hades, If we don't reply to some of your posts, This doesn't means that we haven't read it.
We all read your posts and they are interesting(Atleast for me), Keep them coming.

RoadRocket

oh no no, that wasn't what I was getting at, it's just that sometimes people find these things boring.
Anyway, in continuation - The entire idea of racing older generation engines before shutting down (I'm sure many people have seen others doing it or done it themselves) was to give the battery one final charge especially after night driving, this for weaker batteries used to help start the engines in the morning, especially cold engines. there was also the fact the the air inlet to these engines had to be heated,since they were indirectly injected with the diesel and air mixtures.
Newer generation engines require educated drivers and owners, and fortunately or unfortunately cheap labour comes at a price of ignorance. I had this driver who REFUSED to be educated no matter how much i explained to him. He was a good guy, but he just didn't understand stuff like this.
and since it was the drivers that used to educate the owners, many owners followed blindly the procedure of racing the engines and this caused the turbo failures.
There also used to be a practice where you let the engine idle for a full minute before taking off in gear. This was to ensure that the turbo never ran dry after the engine started. Turbochargers, don't have oil sumps in them, simply because of the lack of space and higher cost of those bearings (the bearings used for individual sumps and those for engine oil lubrication are different), added to increase overhaul intervals.
I remember reading a good topic about oils and lubrication, where someone was pointing out correctly that it depends upon the region where it is to be used, so I won't discuss that any further, except say that oil is designed for a range of temperatures and the most important feature of oils is stability. Everything else is basically either written in the engine manual, and should there be some problem of availability, then the best person to contact is the manufacturer themselves.
I remember one time, when the service station accidentally put Castrol GTX in my Esteem's toyota 1.5 Tidi engine, and never told me about it, until I found out myself. But atleast this was much better than having no oil inside. Drained, Flushed and new oil, everything was fine.
I also remember some tryouts of this new oil, in which demos show that all they did was fill the oil in, run the engine for 10 minutes, drain the oil completely. and then run the engine for almost 100kms WITHOUT ANY OIL IN IT!! - ofcourse the cost of the oil was pretty high, and the intention was to mix this oil with standard oil. I had a bottle of it with me (it's called Roil) - it's over now, but you could make out the immediate difference in engine noise, fuel consumption etc. etc.

Thie Turbo thing is quite new to me. I know that we should not race the engine before turning it off and also idle for a minute before starting and stopping the car. But the real reason for doing so is not clearly known and thanks for clearing it.